Tuna with a warm herb vinaigrette

I never seem to learn. Once again, I have succumbed to the temptation to order tuna in a restaurant, drawn in by the enticing descriptions - pan-seared, lemon-scented, herb-encrusted...I've tried them all and they are invariably disappointing. There's nothing wrong with the sauces and salsas, the problem lies with the tuna - it's always overcooked, giving it the consistency of particularly dry cardboard and turning even the finest grade tuna into something that looks and tastes as if it has just come out of a tin. I mean, I'm not disparaging tinned tuna, it certainly has its place, but it definitely cannot be compared to the fresh stuff. After every delusion I vow never to repeat my mistake, only to fall off the wagon again.

The latest let-down left me longing for a decent piece of tuna, seared on the outside for seconds rather than minutes and still juicy and pink within. I liked the idea that I'd seen at the restaurant which was tuna served with a salsa verde. However, I wanted something slightly less aggressive, just some fragrant herbs, a few capers, a squeeze of lemon juice with some of the zest thrown in for good measure, with just enough olive oil to combine everything.

This post is making its way over to the newly named Cooking with Herbs (but it's still our old favourite Herbs on Saturday). The challenge is created and hosted by Karen from the wonderful Lavender and Lovage.

I'm also sending it to Javelin Warrior's wonderful weekly challenge which encourages everyone to cook from scratch, Made with Love Mondays.

RECIPE

2 tuna steaks
extra virgin olive oil

For the herb vinaigrette
150ml extra virgin olive oil
handful fresh flatleaf parsley
handful fresh basil
1-2 tbsp capers
juice and zest of half a lemon

For the warm vinaigrette, start by roughly chopping the herbs. Put the olive oil into a small saucepan, adding the herbs, capers and lemon zest (though not the lemon juice at this point). Warm everything very gently over a low heat. 

In the meantime, heat a heavy-based griddle pan until hot. Season the tuna steaks with some sea salt and rub with the olive oil. When the pan is very hot, put the tuna steaks in and sear for just one minute each side. It should still be pink inside. 

Just before serving, stir the lemon juice into the sauce, season to taste with salt and pepper and spoon over the tuna. 

In the photo you can see that I served this with some courgettes which I lightly sauteed in olive oil, adding a squeeze of lemon juice at the end. 

Cod with Tomatoes, Olives and Capers - Merluzzo alla Livornese

While I think that traditional fish and chips has its place, I certainly don't think that deep-frying cod in this way shows off the firm, flaky texture to its best advantage. In this recipe for Livorno-style cod, the fish is simmered gently in white wine with fresh tomatoes, black olives and capers. The addition of garlic and oregano gives added depth of flavour. Like so many fish dishes, this is simple to prepare, healthy and full of flavour. The end result is a real taste of the Mediterranean with beautifully cooked cod, firm yet moist, and a wonderful, rich sauce from the wine, olive oil and herbs that develops while cooking. I tend to serve this with just a simple green salad and some crusty bread to mop up the delicious juices. 

This post is making its way over to one of my favourite challenges, Herbs on Saturday, created by Karen from the wonderful Lavender and Lovage.

I'm also sending it to Javelin Warrior's wonderful weekly challenge which encourages everyone to cook from scratch, Made with Love Mondays.

RECIPE - serves 2 

400-500g cod loin or fillet, as thick as possible

plain flour

2 teaspoons dried oregano 

1 clove garlic, crushed

1 onion

8 black olives, halved

1 tablespoon capers

250g cherry tomatoes, halved

2 tablespoons olive oil

250 ml dry white wine

1 teaspoon fresh oregano, roughly chopped

Finely chop the onion and sweat gently in a large frying pan (one with a lid) for about 7 minutes in a tablespoon of the olive oil until translucent but not coloured. 

While the onion is cooking, you can prepare the fish. Cut the cod so that you have about 4 smaller fillets. Sprinkle the dried oregano over the cod, pressing it in slightly. Repeat on the other side. Put some flour onto a plate, season with salt and pepper, then flour the cod on both sides, knocking off the excess. 

When the onion is soft, remove from the frying pan with a slotted spoon. Add a little more olive oil to the pan and turn up the heat to medium. Add the cod and brown on both sides until a nice, golden colour. 

Put the softened onion back in the pan with the cod and add the wine, olives, tomatoes and capers. Put the lid on and cook over a low-medium heat for about 20 minutes or until the cod is cooked but still moist.

Add the fresh oregano and season with salt and pepper to taste.

Serve with crusty bread. 

Courgette-topped Sea Bass

I sometimes get quite panicky about what I would say in one of those 'What's your favourite...?' kind of interviews. I mean, take films; easy, I think, my favourite film is The Philadelphia Story (Katharine Hepburn and Cary Grant). But then what about Mediterraneo? And Bullitt? To Kill a Mockingbird? Cinema Paradiso? I could go on.

I don't fare much better, in fact much worse, with books - how on earth can you narrow that one down? One Hundred Years of Solitude, Small Island, Il Gattopardo, Pride and Prejudice, Mapp and Lucia...the list really is endless...oh, and I've missed out Dickens and childhood favourites (Anne of Green Gables and Little Women of course). I think I could manage better if the interviewer asked me very specific questions: What was the best book you read in the first six months of 2012? Who is your favourite author of contemporary fiction? Which is your favourite town in Italy? (Major Pettigrew's Last Stand; Anne Tyler; Siena).

When the imaginary interview then moves onto the topic of food, well, all hell breaks loose. I would have absolutely no chance of answering a question such as 'What is your favourite dish?' I can't even pick a general food type, where do I start? Cheese, bread, cakes, chocolate...and what about the meaty delights of a perfectly roast chicken or a just seared sirloin? GL maintains that his all-time favourite dish is spaghetti with clams and fresh tomatoes but I see how his face lights up in front of a large hunk of roast meat, committed carnivore that he is.

I'll keep working on my answer to the favourite dish question. Maybe if I draw up a list of my top fifty dishes, I can then just jab one with a pin when the question is asked. One thing is certain - fish would feature heavily. I'll start the list with this courgette-topped sea bass. Prepared in minutes, it's flavoured with lemon zest, garlic and parsley under its crust of courgette and it's wonderful. One of my favourite dishes actually - did I happen to mention that?

This post is making its way over to one of my favourite challenges, Herbs on Saturday, created by Karen from the wonderful Lavender and Lovage and hosted this month by London Busy Body.



I'm also sending it to Javelin Warrior's wonderful weekly challenge which encourages everyone to cook from scratch, Made with Love Mondays.

RECIPE

4 sea bass fillets
1 courgette
zest of one lemon
1 clove garlic
handful fresh parsley, roughly chopped
salt and pepper
extra virgin olive oil

Pre-heat the oven to 180 °C .

Start by thinly slicing the garlic clove and courgette. You can do this by hand or, my preference, with a mandolin. Season the fish fillets with salt and pepper, drizzle with olive oil, sprinkle over the parsley and lemon zest and lay a few of the garlic slices on each fillet. Top the fillets with the courgette slices and drizzle again with olive oil.

Place the fillets on a lightly greased baking tray and put in the oven for about 15-20 minutes, depending on the thickness of the fish fillets. The courgette slices should be just turning golden brown and the fish still moist underneath. 

Pasta with swordfish, aubergine and mint

We have pasta most days. I know that may horrify the carb-avoiders among you but frankly, nothing can match it for taste, speed and ease of preparation and I get withdrawal symptoms if I go for more than a few days without. The best pasta dishes are almost always the simplest - think of pesto, made with basil, pine nuts and parmesan or a fresh tomato sauce, sauteed quickly with maybe a finely chopped shallot or two and served with nothing more than a few basil leaves and a drizzle of olive oil. 

One of my favourite combinations for pasta is fish with fresh herbs and vegetables and this swordfish recipe is one of the finest. It originates in Sicily where the use of mint in savoury dishes is quite widespread and it's a custom that I love. This dish is arguably best made in late summer when aubergines and tomatoes are at their peak but I tend to think of it as something I can (and indeed do) make all year round. It's a beautifully balanced dish of flavour and colour. Just please make sure that you use fresh mint - don't even contemplate using the dried stuff here.

I'm sending this to one of my favourite challenges, Herbs on Saturday, created and hosted by Karen from the consistently wonderful Lavender and Lovage although I apologise for not having foraged for the mint!

I'm also sending this over to Javelin Warrior's weekly challenge, Made with Love Mondays which encourages us all to cook from scratch.

RECIPE

350g penne or other short pasta

1 large aubergine 

olive oil

300g swordfish

1 garlic clove

160g cherry tomatoes, rouhgly chopped

a bunch of mint, chopped

salt and freshly ground pepper

Start by dicing the aubergines into 1cm cubes. Some people salt them before cooking to draw out excess moisture and bitterness but I don't bother - I've tried doing it and really I don't think that it makes a difference.

Pour some olive oil into a large frying pan, about 1-2 cm,  and when it's hot, fry the aubergine cubes until golden brown. Remove using a slotted spoon and place on a paper towel to absorb the excess oil. You may need to do this in two batches. Season with salt and add half of the chopped mint.

Discard the oil and give the pan a quick wipe. Remove any skin from the swordfish with a sharp knife and cut into cubes, roughly the same size as the aubergine. Lightly squash the garlic clove, making sure it stays intact and heat with a tablespoon of olive oil in the frying pan. When it just starts to colour, discard the garlic and add the swordfish. Fry quickly for 2 minutes, then add the cherry tomatoes and cook together for a further 2-3 minutes. Season with salt and pepper.

In the meantime, cook the pasta in salted water according to instructions.

When the pasta is al dente, drain quickly and mix all together with the swordfish, tomatoes, aubergine cubes and the rest of the mint.

Herby trout with potatoes

Before I write about this dish, I feel I have to come clean about its origins. GL devised the recipe and indeed cooked it for the photo above so I cannot claim any credit for it. However, I have a feeling it will become a staple as it worked so beautifully on every level. The fish, protected by the herbs and potatoes stays wonderfully moist, the herby layer gives the fish a fresh lift and the potatoes provide a crunchy texture to contrast with the softness underneath.

This post is making its way over to one of my favourite challenges, Herbs on Saturday, created and hosted by Karen from the wonderful Lavender and Lovage http://www.lavenderandlovage.com/2012/09/herbs-on-saturday-september-challenge-win-a-copy-of-herbs-river-cottage-handbook.html.

    

RECIPE - serves 2

2 trout fillets
a large handful of fresh parsley
1 clove garlic
2 teaspoons capers
4 medium sized, waxy potatoes
extra-virgin olive oil

Pre-heat the oven to 180 °C .

Peel the potatoes and parboil for about 10 minutes. Allow to cool slightly (so you don't burn your hands) before slicing thinly.

While the potatoes are cooking, make the herb mixture. You do this by whizzing the parsley, garlic and capers in a blender with about a tablespoon of olive oil until smooth. Season with a generous quantity of freshly-ground black pepper and add salt to taste.

Drizzle some oil in a roasting dish so that the fish doesn't stick - GL lined it with foil as well. Place the fillets on top, spread with the herb mixture and top with the thinly sliced potatoes. Drizzle liberally with olive oil and place in the oven for about 25 minutes. When done, the fish should be cooked but still moist and the potatoes should be crisp and golden brown.

 

Trout fillets with courgettes and cherry tomatoes

This is fresh and light, perfect for a sunny spring day.

I’ve used trout here but I often use salmon fillets and actually, I don’t see any reason for not using other types of fish either – sea bass and cod would be good variations.

RECIPE  - serves 2 people but quantities can easily be doubled

2 fillets trout (or other fish, see note above)

About 9 cherry tomatoes

1 courgette

Handful fresh basil leaves

Extra virgin olive oil

Cut the courgettes into quarters lengthways and then into about 2cm pieces. Heat a tablespoon of olive oil in a pan and add the sliced courgettes. Cook over a medium heat for 5 mins until they begin to brown, then add the tomatoes, salt and pepper. Stir and cook for a further 5 mins. Remove from the heat, add the basil leaves, roughly torn, and a drizzle of extra virgin olive oil. Cover with a lid and leave to rest while you cook the fish.

Heat a small amount of oil in a frying pan and add the fish fillets, skin-side down. Cook over a moderately high heat for 4 mins so that the skin becomes crispy. I then put a lid on, turn the heat down and cook for another few minutes until done. I do this because I am not very adept at flipping the fish over in the frying pan and it usually breaks but you can obviously turn it over to cook it on the other side if you prefer.

When the fish is cooked to your liking, carefully remove to a plate and spoon the courgette and tomatoes over the top. Finish with a drizzle of extra virgin olive oil and a few more basil leaves. This is good served simply with some boiled new potatoes, lightly crushed with olive oil and sea salt.