Cod with Tomatoes, Olives and Capers - Merluzzo alla Livornese

While I think that traditional fish and chips has its place, I certainly don't think that deep-frying cod in this way shows off the firm, flaky texture to its best advantage. In this recipe for Livorno-style cod, the fish is simmered gently in white wine with fresh tomatoes, black olives and capers. The addition of garlic and oregano gives added depth of flavour. Like so many fish dishes, this is simple to prepare, healthy and full of flavour. The end result is a real taste of the Mediterranean with beautifully cooked cod, firm yet moist, and a wonderful, rich sauce from the wine, olive oil and herbs that develops while cooking. I tend to serve this with just a simple green salad and some crusty bread to mop up the delicious juices. 

This post is making its way over to one of my favourite challenges, Herbs on Saturday, created by Karen from the wonderful Lavender and Lovage.

I'm also sending it to Javelin Warrior's wonderful weekly challenge which encourages everyone to cook from scratch, Made with Love Mondays.

RECIPE - serves 2 

400-500g cod loin or fillet, as thick as possible

plain flour

2 teaspoons dried oregano 

1 clove garlic, crushed

1 onion

8 black olives, halved

1 tablespoon capers

250g cherry tomatoes, halved

2 tablespoons olive oil

250 ml dry white wine

1 teaspoon fresh oregano, roughly chopped

Finely chop the onion and sweat gently in a large frying pan (one with a lid) for about 7 minutes in a tablespoon of the olive oil until translucent but not coloured. 

While the onion is cooking, you can prepare the fish. Cut the cod so that you have about 4 smaller fillets. Sprinkle the dried oregano over the cod, pressing it in slightly. Repeat on the other side. Put some flour onto a plate, season with salt and pepper, then flour the cod on both sides, knocking off the excess. 

When the onion is soft, remove from the frying pan with a slotted spoon. Add a little more olive oil to the pan and turn up the heat to medium. Add the cod and brown on both sides until a nice, golden colour. 

Put the softened onion back in the pan with the cod and add the wine, olives, tomatoes and capers. Put the lid on and cook over a low-medium heat for about 20 minutes or until the cod is cooked but still moist.

Add the fresh oregano and season with salt and pepper to taste.

Serve with crusty bread. 

Pitta di patate - Puglian potato pie

GL's mother is from the Salento area of Puglia, right in the heel of the boot that is Italy. It's a place of vivid colours, from the crystal-clear turquoise seas to the verdant green of the pine forests and the rich red fertile soil. It is this soil that gives such an abundance of vegetables and these form the basis of many of the regional specialities. It's considered cucina povera in Italy, peasant food, but I would happily eat it every day. If you're lucky enough to go there, always order the antipasti della casa; one of ours comprised: stuffed baked tomatoes, minted potato croquettes, fava bean purée, swordfish carpaccio, little fritters flavoured with chilli, tomatoes and black olives, squares of artichoke frittata, pitta di patate (recipe below)...there was more, and all of it delicious but I'm getting too hungry to finish the list.

Pitta di patate is basically a mixture of tomatoes, onions, capers, chilli and olives sandwiched between two layers of mashed potato. It doesn't sound particularly appetising described in that way but just try it, you'll see. You can serve this in the traditional Puglian way as part of a bountiful antipasto, good if you've got a lot of people to feed, or I sometimes serve a square of it as a starter by itself. It's also good as a side dish. It can be prepared the day before and cooked when you want it. Not only does this make it easier if you've got people coming to eat, it actually tastes better when it's had a day or two for the flavours to settle. 

RECIPE

1 kg potatoes

4 onions

a handful of capers

200g black olives, roughly chopped

500g passata

1 cup freshly grated parmesan

1 egg

breadcrumbs

3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil

dried chilli flakes

Peel the potatoes, cut them into even sized pieces and boil until soft. 

While the potatoes are cooking, slice the onions thinly, heat the olive oil in a large frying pan and cook the onions gently until soft. Next, add the olives, capers, a pinch of the chilli flakes and the passata. Mix thoroughly and continue cooking for about 5 mins.

When the potatoes are cooked, drain them well and mash them together with the egg and the parmesan. The mixture should be nice and smooth, without any lumps.

In an ovenproof dish, grease with a little oil, then spread half the potatoes on the base. Pour the tomato mixture on top, then cover with the remaining potatoes, making sure that the filling is completely covered. Smooth the surface and sprinkle over a handful or two of breadcrumbs and drizzle over some olive oil.

At this point, you can leave it for a day or two in the fridge if you wish. To cook, place in a hot oven (200°C) for about 30 mins or until the top is golden brown.

In Puglia, this is eaten warm, not hot but I'll leave that decision up to you. It even tastes good cold too.

Chicken with capers and rosemary

White-wine vinegar is used here to marinate the chicken; this works with the capers to give a lovely tangy flavour to the dish. Cooking with vinegar is quite common throughout Italy and in France, 'poulet au vinaigre' is considered one of the classics. GL's nonno, from Puglia, carried on adding vinegar (or chillies) liberally to his food even in his twilight years, causing much consternation to his family as Italians seem to think that the elderly should only eat bland, insipid food.

I always empathised with nonno as I've loved the sharp taste of vinegar since I was a little girl, when I would even take sips direct from the bottle if no-one was around. If you don't share my love of the stuff however, don't worry - in this recipe it just adds a pleasing hint of tartness in the background rather than overwhelming acidity.


RECIPE

Serves 3-4

Approx 8 pieces chicken (in the photo I''ve used boneless thighs but I often use drumsticks too)
1 onion
1 clove garlic
3 sprigs rosemary
half a glass of white-wine vinegar
half a glass of dry white wine
1 tablespoon capers
extra virgin olive oil

Peel and slice the onion into rings and put them in a dish with the crushed garlic clove and a sprig of rosemary. Place the chicken on top, pour over the vinegar and leave in a cool place to marinate for about 30 mins.

Heat a little oil in a frying pan (with a lid), and brown the chicken pieces on all sides. When golden brown, pour in the wine, add the onions from the marinade and about half the vinegar and the rest of the rosemary. Cook partially covered over a medium heat for about 20 mins, turning the chicken halfway through.

Add the capers, salt and pepper and leave to cook uncovered for a further 10-15 mins, or until the chicken is cooked. If it looks as though it's getting too dry, add a little more wine, water would be fine too.

Serve the chicken on a plate with onions, capers and juices poured over.

Pasta with tuna, olives and capers (pasta al tonno) - a store cupboard standby

I don't think I'm alone in having days when I can't face yet another trip to the supermarket, and I get home tired and hungry, longing for a hot bath, a nice meal and a glass of wine. This dish is one of my standbys for any such day. It's made with things you have sitting in the pantry and it's incredibly quick and easy, taking about 12 minutes all in. Please don't think of it as settling for second-best however; this recipe is satisfying and completely delicious.

RECIPE (serves 3-4)

350g spaghetti

3 tablespoons olive oil

1 clove garlic, crushed

130g tin of tuna

pinch of dried chilli flakes

400g can chopped tomatoes or passata

1 tablespoon capers (I like the small nonpareilles ones)

2 tablespoons black olives, roughly chopped

handful of fresh parsley, roughly chopped (optional)

salt and pepper

Cook the pasta according to packet instructions.

While it's cooking, heat the olive oil in a pan and add the garlic. Cook gently for a minute, then add the tomatoes and chilli. Cook for about 5 minutes then add the tuna, capers and olives. Cook over a gentle heat until all the ingredients have warmed through and season to taste.

Drain the pasta and toss together with the sauce, adding more oil and/or black pepper if you want.

Sprinkle with chopped parsley if you have any around and serve.